Day 61
PUERTO OCTAY, CHILE
New Years Eve and things are falling apart! The bank machine ate Rich´s ATM card....before giving him money....and mine is being rejected by the machine too! We don´t even bank at the same bank! So hence, we have no money....which we decided was fine because there really is nowhere to spend money here....but we will try the banks in Puerto Montt tomorrow....OK one crisis handeled.
But, then I drove to town to check my email.....and our boat to the South has been canceled! Canceled! This is the one thing we planned over four months ago! It is the only way to get down south without flying in what they call a "Air Taxi" which A. is expensive and B. Very scarry!
I have been looking forward to the "Frieghter Crater" trip through the Fiords as long as we have known we were coming down here. My heart is broken. And now we have to decide whether to skip heading toward the horn all together or......or.....I am not sure!
Not a happy holiday to say the least.
Dave and Carrie took off early this morning for their "Air Taxi" to the Futaleufu River (some of the best rafting in the world) I hope their day is going better than ours.
It is funny being just the three of us again. We have not been this way for over a month! I will admit, there are advantages and disadvantages to having everyone together. We loved having the company and conversation. And we love my family. But, it can also be hard organizing a group of seven everyday.....especially without cell phones.
I am sure there are times we will miss them all and times we will be happy just to be our threesome again. In tribute to our time as a family.....here is a nice family pic.

Day 60
PUERTO OCTAY, CHILE
Day 60! Can you believe it! I think of all we have done and seen. Life in Reading seems so far away now.....hell life in Peru already feels like a million years ago! Long gone are the days in Aguas Calientes where we sipped rich coffee poured in a religious type ceremony. We are now quite use to our Nescafe! I can´t count how many mornings we have had biscuits, ham, and cheese for breakfast or how may various internet cafes we have sat in.
I have finally gotten use to carrying my own TP and soap in my bag, I no longer reach for my cell phone when given a moment in the car or waiting in a cafe. Actually, when I hear a cell phone ring I am a little shocked.....it seems strange that people continue to go about using them.
I have not grown accustomed to the fact that Argentinians and Chileans do not wait in line or believe in personal space. And I will admit that I miss being able to call Rich when I can´t find him or we need to coordinate plans. Here....you just wait until someone comes back from where ever they went. I am forced into a much more subdued lifestyle and I can´t say I don´t like it.
Today is Carrie and Dave´s last day and we find ourselves back in Chile in a very tiny town called Puerto Octay. Its on a lake with stunning views of the Volcano. To call it "small" is actually an understatement. Its the first town we have found with no internet cafe (I am currently nealy an hour away in a bigger town of about 1500 people). It seems that poeple come here for peace and quiet....which won´t kill us. We are staying in a hotel called Centinela and quite does not really even begin to explain this place. They have a small beach (and its finally getting hot enough to swim!) and a dock with one boat. They have a lush green lawn, a restaurant.....and not much else. Driving into town also will not help you. Its completely closed for the New Year weekend. The book says this is a good place to spend three days in bed.....and I can see why. Waking up from our adorable cabin with the stunning views (above is right out our front door) is enough to make anyone feel a bit chill.
Tonight is Carrie and Dave´s last night with us. So, we plan to eat dinner here (there really is nowhere else) and play cards and drink wine.....its our standard MO!

Day 59
Bariloche, Argentina

Saying goodbye to Bariloche was the first time this trip I have felt that inevitable "end of vacation" feeling. That sense that you are about to leave paradise and head back to the "real world". However, the light at the end of this realization is that for now, for us, the "real world" is another adventure. A quest to find another Bariloche. So we headed back to The Pan American Highway and toward the boarder. The borders here are not like at home where you enter one country, hence leaving the other behind. Here you must cross the boarder out of Argentina, drive for nearly 45 minutes and then cross the border into Chile. Hence, inbetween is 30 kilometers of lush green feilds, rushing waterfalls, glorious mountains, and nicely paved road....that belongs too???? Nonone? My question I suppose is "Is it possible to be in no country?" And more importantly...if nobody is cleaming it....CAN I HAVE IT??

Anyhow, the ride was entertaining, mostly due to Bryce´s smart and funny questions coming from the backseat:

What is a kilometer?

How is a waterfall made?

Daddy...can you talk to cows?

We stopped on the Argentina side for lunch and ate the most wonderful food I have had since leaving the US. The town is called Villa De Angostura and it is lovely. All the buildings are made of wood, the streets are lined with flowers and the mountains loom in the background.

On the Chile side, Dave had us pull over because in going over the map he had found a "shortcut". Since he has been an excellent navigator the past month we turned left and headed off on a dirt road. Gravel spewing and dust flying we drove down the road toward Puerto Octay. The road provided some of the most beautiful scenery of Chilean farmland I have ever seen. It also provided some minor delays.....

and then an hour later....dead ended into a lake!

Oh well....we saw another view and made it to our next "home" as Bryce calls every place we stay in plenty of time to make the Chilean start of dinner....at 10pm.

Day 58
BARILOCHE, ARGENTINA
Sadly...my parents left to head back home today. It will take them three days to get back with stops in Buenos Aires and Miami. I think they are sad to go.....but my Dad might be a bit ready for "the adventure" to end. I think next year we might send him to a beach in Mexico.
Anyhow...we have had two gloriously sunny days here in Bariloche and we have made the most of them by doing outdoor activities galore!
Bryce´s favorite was the Alpine Slide. You take a chair lift up the ski slope and then cruise down on a sled.

I wish you could have seen my parents race each other down that thing! It was enough to keep anyone laughing for a good long time.










We also took a beautiful ride to the summit of one of the nearby peaks. You get to ride up in a Gondola.....(which I can´t show you pictures of because Rich took them all in 5MEG!)
And then there is a revolving restaurant and incredible views at the top. It was really beautiful. Some of the best views of my life.
The boys also got up early in the morning for a hike...which I would also show you pictures of if they weren´t in 5MEG.....is anyone getting the hint Rich may be in a bit of trouble???
Not that he knows it yet.....he and Dave have hired a guide and are off Fly Fishing for the afternoon! I hope they catch something big. I have a feeling some bragging rights may be at stake.
Last night we had our 2nd fondue dinner of the week and I think we have gone through 20 bottles of red wine in five days. Alas....tomorrow is our last day in Bariloche. It has been wonderful, but its time to start thinking about planning our next steps. Our vacation, from our vacation, must come to an end. I guess life could be worse. :) Down toward the end of the earth we head!

Heather requested some "scenery" pictures.....so here are a few:


ME AT THE SUMMIT


BARILOCHE STREET SCENE

The Christmas House

For Christmas Eve dinner we went to an incredible Swiss Style fondue restaurant where families danced around and puppies played! It was great fun.

Day 55
Bariloche, Argentina
MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Our friend from Spanish school in Peru, a English woman named Sally, remembered our invitation and came to join us which was nice. You know us...Christmas just isn´t the same without at least one add on!
It was funny....I had not heard from her and thought she might not be coming.....but then Rich and Dave returned from their hike with her! They found her out on the road. Perfect....just like the boys to go out hiking and come back with a cute girl!
Despite being on the otherside of the Equator....a lot of Christmas felt very traditional. We opened presents by the tree, played games, and cooked a big traditional meal. (Mom even managed to cook the roast in the wood fired oven!)
But some things were very different from our typical Christmas.....like WATERFIGHTS!

HOT TUBBING


RELAXING ON THE DECK

Overall a beautiful Christmas.

Today after two days of glorious sunshine it is back to pouring rain and clouds......but we have faith! The sun will come again. Thanks for all the beautiful comments on the blog for Christmas. I think the only thing that could have made our Christmas better was if all of you were here with us!

Day 54
Bariloche, Argentina
Merry Christmas Eve! And Merry it is! We finally made it to Bariloche two days ago (with hassel free boarder crossings!) and it was worth every bit of angst to get here.
Starting with the drive here from Puerto Montt. It is just spectacular. Green fields, bridges, flowers, mountains, lakes and waterfalls never stop the entire six hour ride.

And then we got to our house! Its unreal. Its just so beautiful. Bryce calls it the "Christmas House" and he´s right. Its this log cabin style mansion on Lake Moreno and it just feels like Christmas. They has even hung stockings by the fireplace and set up a Christmas tree for us.
Of course the view is not bad either....
White cap mountains, blue water....I can live with it. We are are our own little Lake you have to cross a bridge to get to. We had arranged for the house to have no staff....but our first morning a local woman showed up at the door offering maid services for $2.50 per hour (gotta love Argentina)..... being us......we hired her on the spot!

The big building across the lake is Llao Llau...we are told its the finest resort in Latin America and we plan to check it out for lunch.

As far as the house.....Uncle Davey and Rich´s favorite part is definately the Jacuzzi. And I don´t think Bryce has been out of the indoor pool since we got here! No bad living for a bunch of people with no jobs!
Bariloche itself is also inherently charming. This is kind of Argentina´s version of Aspen. Its a hot ski area with great food, adventure activities, and huge lodges dotting the lakes. But, keep in mind the seasons are reversed.....so its like summer in Vermont. We have spent the last two days running around town in seach of last minute Christmas presents and food shopping for Christmas brunch and dinner. The town looks very German. Its filled with chocolate shops, crafts, and all the trappings of home including good fondue and popular shops. You walk in and out of the charming stores feeling awesome because your dollar is three times stonger than at home, the sun is shinning, and its 65 degrees in December! Just cold enough not to feel too wierd for Christmas....without all the freezing cold suffering stuff. Plus we can see snow capped mountains. I´ll call that a white Christmas!

Day 52
Puerto Montt, Chile
Yesterday was lovely. After a lazy morning Rich, Carrie and Dave went rafting. They were only class three rapids and Bryce and I wanted to go...but the guides said no to my munchkin. Bryce reminded me several times he has done class 3 rapids before....but if the guides think its a bad idea...I am not the mother to fight them. So.. Bryce and I went wandering around Puerto Varas.
(I´ll try to get rich to post pictures and write about the rafting later. They had a great time!)
It turned out to be a lot of fun. It finally felt like Christmas.
A. We were shopping!
B. They were pumping Christmas Carols into the streets through loud speakers
C. They sell fresh Christmas cookies on every corner and we even saw a santa!
It was fun to start getting pumped for the holiday. Better late than never.
Today.....more problems. We arrived back in Puerto Montt to pick up my parents and our permits to travel to Argentina. But, the permits were in the wrong name! Buracracy and this family just do not seem to get along!
So now.....Bryce and Rich have gone to get my parents, Carrie went to return our Chillean rental car, and Dave....I am not sure where Dave went. But, I do know I have been left here alone to wait for the new permits. Alone in Puerto Montt. Cold, rainy....and lets not forget....dangerous Puerto Montt.
But, I am not worried. They are my family. They will come back for me.
And if they don´t.......I have a credit card and a passport. Don´t look for me....I´ll be sunning myself on a beach somewhere near Rio!

Day 51
Puerto Varas, Chile
Well....the upside to independant travel is....if you don´t like where you are.....high tail it out of there! And that is exactly what we did on Chiloe. One more lovely ferrry ride,

and we were back on the mainland. We then drove a quick hour and a half to the town of Puerto Varas. We read in the guide it was the "next Pucon" and since we love Pucon....we figured this was a good bet. And indeed it is cute. Not as cute as Pucon mind you.....larger and a bit more commercialized....but much better than Chiloe! This town seems to have a German influence which leads to charming wooden buildings, cheese shops and craft markets.

We found a great lodge right on the Lake, called Hotel y Cabanas Del Lago. They had no rooms, but they had an adorable little cabin with one bedroom and three beds in the living room.

After Chiloe and our cramped Hostel.....we decided the cabin was heaven. The resort also has great views of the lake , an indoor swimming pool.....and Bryce´s favorite a playground right next to our cabin!




Rich also found his favorite toy here...
Life is good again and everyone is happy. Our cabin even has a little kitchen which after two months of eating in restaurants was a grand surpirse. Its a tiny kitchenette with no stove...but I managed to make a dinner of spicey corn chowder and beer steamed mussels with lemon butter. It seemed very appropriate with the cloudy and cool weather that continues to haunt us here in Northern Patagonia! Everyone deemed dinner a wonderful change from the local fare.
Good news from my parents. My mother was able to convince the embassy that missing Christmas with your only grandson IS a life or death emergency. They should have the passport today and be able to fly back tomorrow in time to drive to Argentina with us. They have certainly beeen making the most of their detour. They are staying at the Plaza in Santiago and when we finally reached them they were on a wine tour and planning a lovely dinner. I was feeling very happy for them that they were doing such a good job of turning lemons into roses .....until I remembered their only access to money is MY credit card, that I gave them with strict instructions it was "To Be Used For Emergencies Only". Uhmmm......is this how my Dad felt the day he handed me HIS visa as I headed off to college??

Day 50
The Island of Chiloe, Chile
Well.....it turns out the beautiful 30 minute ferry ride to Chiloe.....is the best thing about Chiloe.
The guide books made Chiloe sound charming and unique, but all we found (after driving across the entire island) was more dirty Chillean cities. Kind of smaller versions of Puerto Montt.....and colder, windier, and rainier.
We got to our hotel and they did not have our reservation....almost everything was booked and we were freezing. After the day started with Mom getting robbed....we were getting a bit cranky.
But, as we do....we made the best of it. Finally found a clean if not almost cute hostel with two rooms and went out for pizza. Afterward we did find a fun, boat style bar with a friendly owner and good drinks and our opinion of Chiloe increased by a bit.

Day 49
Puerto Montt, Chile
Happy anniversary Mom and Dad! But.....not really. What a disaster! In our rush to get out of Puerto Montt as quickly as possible we were all running around taking turns doing errands.My Mom´s task was to take care of Bryce and he wanted to go to McDonald´s....so off they went as we packed up the cars.
When they returned we were all anxious to hit the road....but my Mom´s face told us something was terribly wrong. She explained to us she had been robbed. She was unhurt....but since we were packing and getting ready to change cities she has put EVERYTHING in her purse. All my parents cash, all five of their credit cards, their ATM card, her perscriptions, her glasses, and worst of all......her passport.
The very helpful hotel staff quickly jumped into gear calling the police while my Dad got on the cell to cancel all their cards and Carrie hopped on the computer to contact the embassy. The embassy clearly explained to us that the only way to get another passport (the only way for her to be with us in Argentina for Christmas) was to go to Santiago....11 hours away.
So...we did the only things we could. I drew as much cash as I could from my ATM to give them and Carrie charged plane flights on her Visa. We drove them to the airport. It would be a minimum of 4 days in Santiago.......and at worst......two weeks.
My poor Mom felt so awful. It was their wedding anniversary. But, the clear demonstrations of 42 years olf love and marriage shined through. My Dad never once solded her and never once did he consider not returning to Santiago with her. They are a team. He simply felt bad for her because he knows how much she wanted all of us together.
At the airport we had one final scare when the desk at the airline told us they had seats for my parents.....but no meals. Its a two hour flight........so who cares!? Well...it seems Air Sur cares and will not fly any "guests" without a meal. Are you kidding me?????
After much begging, they let them on the flight 15 minutes before take off.
The five us us moved on to the Ferry to Chiloe.

Day 48
Pucon to Puerto Montt, Chile
Well...our adventures in Pucon got a little rained out. We had to cancel rafting....but hope to do it sometime soon. We did however get a van to the natural hot springs in the evening and that was fun...but four of the six pools were closed......so the guy gave Carrie and I a free bottle of Pisco Sour to sooth our disappointment. It seemed to work and we had a good time. We had a great vegetarian dinner in town. Pucon is so cute.....nothing can ruin it.
The boys did risk the rain (and got lucky with a decent morning) to hire a guide and go fly fishing. The novice (Dave) was very successful and caught a big brown trout.











Rich caught one too.....but not as big.
He´ll be eating his on a Ritz cracker. :)
We arrived at the hotel in Puerto Montt around 6pm and I was so thrilled to see Bryce! He looks great and gave me the best hug I have ever had in my life!
Its fun to all be together again and swap stories of our various adventures.
However, we are anxious to get out of Puerto Montt. It is a dirty, noisey city with no charm. And to boot......its cold and raining.
Tomorrow we are off to The Grande Island of Chiloe!

We have fast internet service here....so below is a retrospective of photos from earlier parts of the trip!

Valparaiso Puerto

Riding in the Andes

A day at the beach...Bahia Inglesia

Fishing at Bahia Inglesia?

Carrie asked me if Pucon looks like San Pedro.....NO! But, since I never had San Pedro photos on the blog...here are a few to compare.



San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

DAY 47

Pucon, Chile
Well....we have found cute! We are in Pucon, about 10 hours South and slightly West of Santiago and I must say it is one of the most adorable towns I have ever seen. You can't figure out if it feels like Aspen or Switzerland or maybe just the Chilean mountains!
Its a popular ski village in the winter, but now in summertime it is the "Adventure Capital" for white water rafting, horsebackridding, mountain climbing....and hot springs. (You may have guessed, Carrie found this place). The small village is filled with vintage log cabin style buildings advertising vegetarian restaurants, adventure tours, yoga, hiking, fly fishing and home cooked bread.

Our hostel is called Ecole and it is adorable. It looks like a little cabin filled with plants and flowers and little bridges which lead you to your room. Ours have wood floors, a living room and a big center chimney which we promptly lit last night because the temps have dropped about 20 degrees from Santiago.
Last night was a bit quiet.....I would say because we were all hung over, but it might have more to do with the fact that getting me on the local flight yesterday took two Xanax and a bottle of wine. Hence, I promptly slept through the flight, the drive to Pucon, and then for about 12 more hours! However, I had no flight anxiety and today I feel amazingly refreshed.
Tomorrow is BRYCE DAY! I can't wait to see him!!!!!! I miss him so much. I cried when I read my Mom's last comment. Mom, if you are reading this to him......I'm coming baby! One more day.
Off to do adventure tours! I should have some good pics tomorrow!

Day 46
En-Route, Chile
Great night out last night in Santiago! No pictures....because both cameras died...can you belive that!
Anyhow.....it was Carrie's Birthday so we went over to the "Chi-Chi" part of town called Barrio Bellavista and it is soooo cool. Gorgeous little area of winding streets filled with great restaurants, cool bars, street performers, bands, and free theatre. Its what you dream a city will be....filled with life, instead of traffic.
We ate dinner at a place called Etniko, its a Fushion Asian Restaurant con very lively hip bar with indoor and outdoor patios, blarring music....and best of all INCREDIBLE food. We munched on veggie sushi, veggie tempura, and wok fried tofu. Everything came in the best sauces and the boys seemed to love their samlon stuffed fritters and eel rolls. Of course, the triump of the place was the very strong...but tastey margaritas!
The staff there was all very beautiful...but very nice....a combination you would not find in New York. As they turned away hotly dressed Chilleans at the door they treated us like royalty. When I stepped outside for a cigarette the bartender chased me outside to tell me I could smoke at the table. When I explained my table mates would not appreciate it he said "Well...a beautiful woman should never smoke alone. I will stay out here with you, until you come in!" Yes...that comment increased his tip by $10!
But, then when we tipped him, he tried to give some back! "This is too generous" he said. Can you possibly imagine that happening in the US! They will take any tip the frunk fools will give them!
By the end of dinner we were already drunk from food and liquor...but we plowed on. We headed to a local Pena (bar with live music) called Pico Cuba. Its a little place with a live guitar player and stiff mojitos, enjoyed on natural wood bar stolls with large open windows and friendly waitresses who talked the guitarist into playing Happy Birthday in English.
That was enough for Carrie and I so they boys walked (or dragged) us home and then went back out!
Lets just say they did not feel very well on the plane the next day!

Day 45
December 15, 2006
Santiago, Chile
Happy Birthday Carrie!
Sorry....no pics today because Rich left the camera in our last hotel room. No worries...the boys went back for it....but by the time they had it the wine tour was over and all we have done since then is drive on the highway. The highway here is no prettier than the highway at home.....so I figured you dont need pictures.
The winery this morning was fun. We decided to change it up a bit and went to an organic winery up in the hills. Its called VOE. They only sell one lable in the US called, Serenity....and we did not get to try it, but some of their others were great. I even loved their white....not like me. Anyhow this winery was fun because it had the feeling of a farm. They let cows wander about to fertilize the field and chickens run amuck to eat all the vine weebils. They grow camomile, poppies, and lavender amoungst the grape vines to add flavor to the whites and cultivate green peppers in the same fields as the shiraz.
All the wineries have been wonderful and we really learned a lot.
I am glad to have been here now. We had private tours on the first three vineyards and today only four others....but they tell us in Feb.they will have up to 1000 visitors a day! I much prefered feeling like the vineyards were there for us. All the wine we could drink! The weather has been perfect too. 80 and sunny everyday. Its very hard to leave.
Here in Santiago things have chilled since the funeral. Its now back to just simply being another one of the worlds bussling cities.
Good news is the rather bland, but kind hotel has upgraded Carrie to a suite for her B-day......the last one did that too....she is making out!
Anyhow....Carrie gets to pick dinner tonight and it sounds like we are off for sushi.
Mom.....no word. We keep calling you and checking our email. You have not posted in a few days....please check in!
Love,
Betsy

Hi Everyone......
Lots of new pics below! And remember to scroll through days past. I have finally added pictures to most of them.
Evie....love the map thing! I wish I was techy enough to add a map to the blog.
Mom...worried about Dad. We keep trying to call you. Get in touch if you can. We are starting to think you have kidnapped our baby to live on a sheep farm in the Falkland Islands!
Love you all!
B and R

Forget the bottle! We´ll take the room!

DAY 44
Santa Cruz, Chile
Wine, wine and more wine! Today we started our vineyard tastings before lunch! In the morning we went to the Santa Cruz Vineyard. Never heard of it? That is because they do not export their wine. It is an exclusive wine only sold in Chile.....and we can see (and taste) why they are hogging it!
But, even more special than the wines I think is the clear effort all these vineyards put into making the entire visit to their farms a real unique pleasure. Yesterday´s vineyard had the horse and buggy. Today the tour started with a Swiss Gondola (sp??) ride.

Then they take you up to a observatory, museum, and demonstrations of ancient Chilean houses. Its incredible the work that had gone into these places. And the view takes your breath away.

This land is truly stunning. And the guides are so friendly and kind. They WANT to teach you, they want to show you how special this world is to them, and most of all they want you to love their wine, their vineyard, and their country.
Not to worry.....we do.
In the afternoon we found a beautiful country Hacienda where we had lunch

.....took a little nap......and then went to the vineyard that produces the La Joya lable. The first one I had actually drank before! Its a great wine. They sell in the US and it is only about $10 to $20 a bottle......go buy some!
Now I am blogging, the boys are swimming in the pool, and Carrie is having her birthday massage......not a bad life I tell ya!

DAY 43
SANTA CRUZ, CHILE
We made it! We made it! The Wine Valley! And let me tell you in the wise words of my husband "This place does NOT suck!"
After days, weeks....sometimes it feels like years of roughin´ it....today we pulled our car into the most lovely resort in the Colchagua Valley Wine Region of Central Chile. Pulled our car in....and had the valet get our lugguage!
Hot showers, Jacuzzi tubs, spacious rooms with balconies and fireplaces. Fountains and warm water pools. Chileans dressed to the nines lounging in the bar and American business men chating real estate deals over breakfast......it exists! Luxury has not been lost!
However, for the first time in nearly two months, I have to say I realized what I was wearing, and how my hair looked....and that I had no make-up on.....we certainly needed to step it up a notch here in Santa Cruz!
We immediately settled in and headed out to our first Vineyard. It was called Viu M and it was a wonderful experience. They take you on the tour in a horse and carriage...

and we drank our first taste of true Chilean wine right out of the vat.

I swear...I don´t know if wine has ever tasted so sweet. They have a wine here I had never even heard of...Camenere. We are told it went extinct in Europe years ago, but they found the grapes here in Chile about 30 years ago and began to produce them. It makes a light, delicioso red wine.....we took a few bottles back to the room.
We had Sushi for dinner! Incredible Sushi....after weeks of eating typical South American food (or pasta) we all proclaimed the chef an ARTIST....and retired back to the room for wine and card games.

Very fun times. A perfectly relaxing day in heaven.

Dave and Rich take a dip in the Andes

Day 41 and 42
CASCADA DE LAS ANIMAS, CHILE (Waterfall of the spirits)
Two days of chill time in the mountains and the best news is everybody is about 90 % healthy. The only remnant of Carrie´s illness is her nice black eye. A gift from when she slammed her head into the toilet while worshiping the porceline God. Poor thing.
Anyhow....this place is incredible. Its a little eco-resort about two hours South West of Santiago. We drove right around Santiago to avoid all the commotion of the Pinochet Furneral. We were told it was a bad time to be there....so we listened.
Anyhow, we are staying a a cute but rustic cabin with a small kitchen and four beds.
The first day here we took a long hike up into the Andes. It was spectacular. The stuff dreams are made of. We came upon beautiful waterfalls with crystal clear swimming pools of water underneath. No one else around.

Romantic and secluded, we opened a bottle of wine and hung out for a while.
However, the water comes from snow melt at the top of the mountains.....so the boys were the only ones brave enough to actually go for an ice cold dip!

The camp is also a working horse ranch...so the next day we went for a ride. It was beautiful. The views from the plateau at the top of the mountain are incredible. Snow capped peaks and lush green fields all the way down to the river.

I will admit though....the steep trails with sharp edges down to the mountain edge are a bit freaky.....and I walked down. Too nervous my horse would slip right off the side! The funny thing is...my horse did fine and I fell on my butt twice!
Thats OK.....I have decided I am plenty brave in many ways....I have nothing to prove....just some very dusty clothes to wash!

DAY 41
VALPARISIO/VINA DEL MAR, CHILE
Yesterday was another bit of a struggle. We drove for six hours with Carrie sick in the front seat, only to arrive in Valparaiso and end up lost for another hour in the mess of curvy uphill streets, pot holes, and various other road blocks.
We keep joking we feel like we are in the Amazing Race. I can just hear the host "Tonight´s pit stop is the Hostel Brighton, a lovely Victorian built in the hills of Valpariso in 1876. However, to get there you must first make your way through the tiny streets of this port town. The ongoing construction and one way streets could cause delays."
Anyhow....we finally got out of the car and walked. By the time we found it Carrie needed to go straight to bed. However, we were lucky and the hotel had a great terrace bar with an incredible view of the port and Rich, Dave and I settled in for drinks. Later Carrie was well enough to want dinner....which we took as a good sign.
This morning we got Carrie and Dave up at 9am....a small miracle....and headed straight for Vina Del Mar just 15 minutes away. I think our book describes Valpariso as "Vina Del Mar´s blue collar sister" and they might be somewhat on track. Valpariso is very Victorian, beautiful old buildings and squares....but they don´t seem to have the money to keep it up. Its very dirty and the streets and buildings are falling apart. However, despite this...there seems to be a vibe there. Very bohemian style cafes, street vendors, and music.
Vina on the otherhand is "BIENVENIDOS A BOCA VISTA, FLORIDA". Its almost impossible (except no one speaks English) to distinguish this town from Boca or any other high rise community along Florida´s beaches. This fact gives me hope that for lunch I will be eating something other than pasta, pizza, or platos traditionales.
I am craving tofu......and I am thinking I might possible find it here!So sorry about no photos!!!!!! Its been days since we found a computer that can download them....but as soon as we do.....I´ll post bunches!
PS: I am loving the dialog in the comments! Its fun!

Day 40
LaSerena, Chile
Carrie is still sick...but better. I made her home made veggie broth last night and she has managed to keep that and some bread down....so we are heading to Santiago!
Thank God we had this little apartment and not just some hotel room.
The grocery store here was insane...imagine 3 Sam´s Clubs put together. Just when you think you have found the butter....you are in the trampoline section! A far cry from the various little markets of Peru! Its like they have gone 100 degrees in the opposite direction and put EVERYTHING in one place.
Thanks for the Bryce updates Mom! I am so jealous right now. I really miss him and I know we would have so much fun seeing him have so much joy.
Glad to know you are out there Evie! Enjoyed your comments and I am happy you are reading.
Betsy

Day 39
Later in the day.......
Still in LaSerena. Una Problema. Unfortunately Carrie insisted Lonely Planet said the water here was fine to drink. She is learning the hard way this is not true. She is recked with the stomach bug so bad that she can not get out of bed. We have therefore extended a night in LaSerena and plan to head South tomorrow.
I feel terrible for her....but Rich and Dave have been throughally enjoying the beach and the waves and I have not so much minded staying at the apartment playing nursemaid and reading my book while she sleeps all day.
Staying put for a day with nothing to do at the beach doesn´t seeem like the worst thing that could happen to us. They have fast internet here...so..later we will pop up some photos.

Day 39
LaSerena, Chile
We will call yesterday....growing pains.
Carrie and Dave arrived the night before and we partied at the Dome with some other travelers way too late with way too much liquor....so a bit hung over the next day we got into our little car "Pepe" and headed for the PanAmerican Highway for our six hour drive down the coast. However.....Rich first HAD to show Carrie and Dave where we found the fossils....so we detoured into the desert.
We were half successful....Carrie found a fossil!
But then Pepe got stuck in the sand!

Here we are in the middle of the Chilean desert and trust me...no one is just going to drive by.
But, we are a creative group and the boys jacked up the car while I rock hunted and Carrie used the rocks to built a road under the wheels. Two hours later....we got out! And then we got lost.
However, we prevailed and about 10 hours later arrived dirty and tired into LaSerena.
LaSerena is a popular Chilean beach town and this is a holiday weekend in Chile. So imagine Cape Cod on Memorial Day.
Now, that you have the picture....we showed up at our hotel so late (due to our delay) that the hotel had given away our rooms!
We drove all around and up and down the beach being told by every hotel they were booked. But, just when we thought we were sleeping in the car....we got a room! Its a cute little apartment with two rooms and two bathrooms right on the beach. Its almost a shame we have to leave today. :)
LaSerena is the first true civilization Rich and I have seen in a while and it is a bit of an adjustment. Paved roads, shops, a MALL! There are Christmas decorations here! When did it turn into Christmas????
THANKS FOR ALL THE BRYCE STORIES IN THE COMMENTS, MOM.....WE LOVE THEM!
We miss the babe.