Day 126

Rio, Brazil

Another big day!

We started the morning by heading to Tijuca National Park, a 8151 acre park in the heart of Rio. Like a little rain forest that survived in the middle of this far reaching city.

The park brings forth two emotions in me:

On one hand, it was beautiful and green and cool and peaceful. It makes you rejoice that this historical patch of wild life has survived and glad for the people of Rio that they have this refuge.

On the hand.....it breaks your heart. You see, we discovered when we arrived that the gangs have taken over the park. This makes it too dangerous for the average person to walk the trails or hike the hills. This forest has become a jungle war zone. In response, the park is falling apart. Historical buildings and mansions have fallen down, trails overgrown, restaurants closed. It feels a bit like a jungle ghost town.

We were all very disappointed that we could not go hiking. I found myself angry with the corrupt government that lets such a thing happen to such a jewel as this park.

We did get somewhat fortunate that a gentelman was there from The World Life Wildfund there at the Park. He spoke perfect English and took us on a quick car tour. That was the best we could do.

After the park we headed to lunch at a great place on the water. Big Brazillian BBQ that made the carnivors in the group very happy. They had a kid room.....which made the little ones happy too. We had planned on going to a neighborhood called Santa Teressa....but Fernanda (named by Alex "the terrified, supermodel tourguide" ) insisted there were too many kidnappings in the area. Yes, that is one way to make parents change their minds in a heartbeat.

At the end of our lunch, we fullfilled one of my dreams by going for cocktails and ice cream at The Copacabana Palace. That hotel exudes glamor. I can not even appropriately describe how elegant it is.

To top off a very nice evening we crossed the street and dipped our toes in the water of Copacabana Beach. The kids loved running into the waves in the dark, Alex and I delighted in touching our toes to what Bryce called "Famous Sand", and Heather got very nervous that we were..... "Breaking the one rule that every guide book puts in bold print......DO NOT WALK THE BEACHES AT NIGHT."

I guess we are lucky.....because everyone escaped without harm and a with smile on their face.

Day 124
Rio, Brazil
Brazil e penta! The cry of Brazillian football...or soccer as we Americans call it. But, you really cant say you have experienced Brazil when you did not attend a football game. Plus we figured the boys (big and small) would love it.....so we bought tickets to Sunday's game of two local rivals Team Flamengo and Team Vasco. Turns out us girls LOVED it too!
I have to admit, walking into the world famous Macacana Staduim in Rio was intoxicating. The military police with AK-47s greet you as you walk in.....crowd control is important....Barzilians take their soccer very seriously. Up in the stands the energy is intense. The game itself is certainly exciting, but the real action in in the grandstands where opposing fans fill opposite sides of the staduim, chanting, yelling, waving flags, setting off fire works, singing, dancing....and sometimes crying. When their team does badly, they yell at each other as if the guy sitting next to them was the actual player who missed the goal. When a big play is being awaited....they jump and dance and yell so loudly you can feel the massive concrete stadium waiver up and down under the power of thousands moving at once. The best way I can describe it to say it is a sea of energy.
Such a thrill of mesmerizing proportion that it leaves your heart beating, your butt shaking, and your throat in the pit of your stomach.
We decided to vote for Vasco (the white team)...because we were surrounded by their fans and somewhat afraid to be happy for the other side. I must say.... we actually got really into it! By the end, I honestly cared how our team was doing.

The plays were exciting. The movement so high paced. The boys so young and yet under so much pressure. And it really can be vicious. We must have seen 6 or more players flip up in the air, come down on their heads, and be removed on stretchers. But, the game barely skips a beat.
And alas, now we have experienced true Brazilian sadness because after a 1/1 tie....our team lost in the final shoot out.
We stayed in the stands until the stadium cleared (as we had been advised to avoid the fights that tend to break out after the game) and then cheered up as we headed back to our van. It was easily voted one of the highlights of our trip.

Day 123

SAMBRADROME! RIO DE JANEIRO, Brazil

Last night was the final party for the winners parade of The 2007 Carnivale. I will have to let Rich tell you all about it...since unfortunately...I did not go.

Zach was sick.....and I certainly was not going to have my theatre enthusiast, best friend, miss this chance of her lifetime. So, I stayed home.

However, I dont think Rich will have to write much.....because as they say...A PICTURE SPEAKS A THOUSAND WORDS!

You will want to click on these and blow them up to get the full effect.

Day 122
Nitoroi, Brazil
OK.....to be honest we did little more today than hang around the house....swim in the pool and play with the monkeys. It was a perfectly nice day!
The boys loved it and even tied strings to bananas to try to lure the monkeys into the house. These monkeys did not need much encouragement!
So,these monkey pictures are for you Zoe....and because they are so darn cute!

In case anyone out there loves to learn.......these are Miko Monkeys......also called "Brazillian Squirrels."

And I will have to give my cute quote for this entry to someone else's kid.

At some point in the day....we noticed the yard was flooding....

"Who left the hose on?" yelled Heather.

A squeeky little voice chirped "I did!" with pride.

"Kayla! Why did you turn on the hose?" asked Heather

Tiny, 3 year old Kayla smiled broadly and said "For the mermaids!"

Now how can you argue with that logic???!!!

Day 121
Rio, Brazil
Now here is a picture I know you have seen before.....BUT NOT WITH US IN IT! The Corcovado, commonly known as The Christ Statue. We had to go. Its that symbol that you have arrived in this wild and wonderful city of energy, heat, and some of the best beaches in the world.
The statue itself is fun to get to. You take an old cable car ride up the mountain through the jungle. The cable car was built in 1889. The statue itself built in 1931. Its so much larger than I ever imagined. HUGE! I also never knew it was actually assembled right there on top of the mountain....piece by piece. Millions of tiny mosaic soapstone pieces lovingly put together bit by bit on a mountain top. Very impressive, I must admit.
The view was also incredible. You can see all of Rio. A fasinating city of highrises sandwiched between the ocean and the mountain, twisting and flowing between lakes and lagoons.
The only rough part of the day was that poor Zach had developed swimmers ear,and therefore was understandably very cranky. I felt bad for Heather that her dream of seeing The Christ was marred by the distraughtness that comes with having a sick child.
But, on vacation or not.....we never stop being mothers.

Day 119
Nitorei, Brazil
The Hardys are here! The Hardys Are Here!
Yesterday at 8am, after 20 hours of travel....Heather, Alex, Zach, Kayla, and Grandpa Jack arrived in Brazil.
We all met up at our house on the hill....which is Brazillian, but beautiful and settled in. Our favorite part of the house is the monkeys! I am sure the locals find them annoying...but we think they are adorable. Cheeky little guys though....they will scurry right into the house and steel food. Last night I could not set the table for dinner until the last moment because when I put out the bread rolls.....one disappeared!
Last night, Rich and I were ready to party with friends....but The Hardys were so exhausted, I think the only reason we kept them awake though dinner was because they were also starving.
Today everyone was still in need of a little RandR.....so we made it a beach and pool day. Its been nice and relaxing. The kids are having alot of fun having buddies and so am I!
Its funny how natural it feels to have Heather and her family here. Just seems like those we love belong on this adventure with us. Not having seen anyone from home since Carrie and Dave left almost two months ago......as awesome as it is meeting new people.....I love the comfort of "Those who know you."
The Beach was very crowded today.....National Holiday and all, which gave us a good chance to experience local culture.
Henceforth comes.....My tidbit for the day:
In Brazil......the body you have has NOTHING to do with the bathingsuit you wear. Thin/fat, taught and smooth or scared and wrinkly, young/old......they all wear string bikinis.
Now....close your eyes......take a moment to picture your grandma.... in a thong. In Public.
NO.....its not pretty. Some things about American culture have their perks!

Day 117

Buzios, Brazil

Today we just hung around our Pousada, the lovely Villa Bambuti. After two days of traffic, swiming and reading in this lovely setting atop the hill, overlooking the bay.....seemed like all the excitement we needed. And after 117 days of foreign language...it was a pleasure to just sit around and chat in English with our sweet hosts, Debbie and Louis.

This pousada realy starts to feel like visiting good friends. Everyone hangs our and tells stories.....its a nice change from being in hotels.

Bryce enjoyed it because the Pousada has a two year old German Shepherd who at first looks quite opposing, but turns out to be quite sweet.

It was hysterical.....the dog has a terrible fear of drowning and I think Bryce raised him into quite a tizzy by spening two hours in the pool. Poor, Zulu spent the whole two hours trying to pull him out of the water and "save him from danger."

But, alas......I am telling you about the boring part of our day......

LAST NIGHT WE FINALLY MADE IT TO CARNIVALE!

And I can honestly say......it was worth the traffic! Buzios was the perfect place for us to imbibe in this Brazilian tradition. Itsthe kind oftown where bringing your purse and camera to the party is a good idea....not a dangerous one. Its the kind of town where Carnivale is a family event and despite all the crowds and insanity....it is friendly, safe, and fun.

So....here is the gist of how it works. Starting around midnight various bands and dance groups parade up and down the main street. As a party-goer...you have two choices:

Join the masses dancing behind the parade...or stand on the side lines to drink and take pictures.

We did a little of both. The first event we joined was the childrens parade. Note: This is NOT a good event for cameras, hairdos, or my dryclean only shirt.

Essentially the band marches playing samba music and all the kids are placed on shoulders to follow down the street where guys on the side lines pass them rigged bottles of shaving cream and silly string with which they douse the crowd. As you can imagine.....Bryce thought this was the BEST thing ever!

The next event we partook in was the Dancing Girls Parade. Here, beautiful women dance down the streets in the traditional Carnivale costumes, while onlookers toss water to them....and on them. The object is to get "laid" by one of the girls.....to which I did succeed.

There are also all sorts of traditional bands representing the customs and commerce of Brazil. Religious bands, samba bands, jazz, rock, country, blue-grass.....its a virtual maddness of music and dancing. Everyone was so happy! So friendly! And so interested in making sure everyone in attendance was having the time of their lives. There was not one person in town who was not egar to take photos, dance together, pass out drinks and gifts and just generally share the merriment.

All I can say is "You have to go to Carnivale in Brazil.!" It really wil be the best party you ever attend.

Second to the shaving cream parade....Bryce loved all the girls:

Rich loved the girls too: And I loved the boys? Girls? It all gets a little confusing down there!

About 2am....just when the party was getting started, we decided we better take Bryce home.

But, quite possibly....Bryce was taking us home.....I think he could have gone all night. Rich and I are just too old for this stuff!

Day 116
Paraty, Brazil
In the light of day, our hell had turned to heaven. Paraty was everything I had been promised and more. Charming cobblestone alleyways featuring blue and white houses with laterns and red tin rooftops.

Adorable shops, great restaurants that call you to with the smell of fresh fruit and boiling sauces. And best off all....huge palms lining pristine white sand beaches dotted with colorful fishing boats. This is the Brazil you hope to find. Secluded, pristine and chi chi...but filled with music and color and smiling faces.
The decorations from Carnivale made it even more lively and we throughally enjoyed a morning of just strolling the tiny walkways.
After a fantastic lunch of garlicky brushetta, calamari, and spinach ravioli with light tomato sauce......we knew we had to leave. We had another four hour drive ahead of us and we figured it might take six with traffic.
Oh.....why don't we learn????!!!!!
The first half of the drive from Paraty was beautiful. We took the nicely paved coastal highway (I am sure this is how Mick gets there).
This drive answers the question "With crime and traffic and bugs....why does everyone love Brazil sooo much?"
On your left, thick emerald green rain forest splattered with purple flowers and grand waterfalls. On your right perfect beach after perfect beach and turquios waters more sparkling clear than you ever imagined possible.
It was 2.5 hours of road trip joy.
Then we hit Rio and a little traffic. But, not too bad....it was moving. And seeing Rio for the first time out the car windows was a rush....so we did not mind going slow to check out the vistas.
We passed through Rio without much trouble and hit the Northern 101 to the coast.
Then we sat. Wall to wall cars for 0ver 100 miles and 7 hours of sweat, noise, and the only scenery....the slums surrounding the city. The traffic is so heavy they set up roadside food stands where you can order and be served your dinner in your car without moving more than three feet down the road.
Dear Lord.....I did not think any of us were going to surrvive a 2nd day of living on the highway.
But, we did. A little past midnight (12 hours of driving) we found our Pousada in Buzios.
I rang the doorbell and heard a distinct "Hello."
English had never sounded so good.
It turns out the owners of our beautiful B&B are from California.
They had kindly awaited our arrival with a much needed open bottle of wine.
For the second night in a row....we were too distraught to join the Carnivale.