Day 25 (of being home)
Boston, Ma. USA
I know this post is more than a bit past due and I am sorry to all of you who I promised to keep updated.
Last night I ran into an old girlfriend of my brother-in-law's at the grocery store and accidentally ended up unloading on her for over 30 minutes. Almost crying right there in the grocery store in front of our carts. This is when I knew I have been keeping too much inside since we got back. I had to make time for the blog......or God knows I would torture some other poor soul who is probably now very happy she did not marry into this family!
After our whirlwind 4 days at Disney World we flew to New York and spent four days celebrating our friend Darci's 40th birthday. It was a fun way to see friends and get reaquainted with "The Northern World".
My car had been parked at their house in NY all this time, so on Sunday night we drove back to Boston.
We dropped our stuff in our vacant one bed condo in the city and went to bed on the mattress on the floor. Despite having a bed upstairs, the three of us crowded into the double mattress in the basement. I guess we were just use to being close.
At 8am the next morning, Bryce went back to school, I went back to work, and Rich set about making the condo livable for our "temporary" situation.
To say the next month was overwhelming might be the understatement of my lifetime.
Walking into work, I felt like I had gone out for a cup of coffee.
"Betsy, there are two open houses you need to do on Sunday."
"Betsy, I have questions about my Purchase and Sale."
"Betsy, my deal is falling through....do you know anyone who wants to sell a raw loft??"
I have to wonder what on earth they all did for the five months I was gone!
Right back to the grind with appointments my very first day.
I have worked everyday since then with my only day off being Easter.
Yes, I understand it is a double edge sword. If I arrived back to sit at my desk and twiddle my thumbs I would have been very angry. I would have worried about money and wondered; if I had nothing to do here WHY had I come back.
But, on the other side. I feel as if all the joy and wonder of our trip slipped into a memory too quickly. Its funny....we never even talk about the trip. Its as if the limited time available to us to have the necessary conversations of life is all we can handel.
I still wake up mornings feeling like I just had a dream.
But, it was not a dream. It was very real. And now we are feeling the very real consequences of our actions.
After the intial "Of my God, its great to see you! Welcome Back!" all our friends returned to life as usual.....except sometimes it feels like in 5 months they learned to live that life without us and now it will take time to remind them we are here.
Rich has to job hunt and it is hard to get him motivated. I know what a daunting process it is, so I try to understand. But, until he has a job, we have to stay here in the one bedroom.
At first that wasn't bad. After 153 days of hotels, the 1000 square foot condo actually felt quite spacious.
Our first day back Bryce said to me "Mommy, this is a great hotel! We have our own refridgerator and everything." Even Rich said "I knid of like living in the city again." And I have to admit, the comute is pretty sweet.
But, now one month later, the space is closing in on us. The dog is back from Arizona and living in a condo with a dog is an impossible situation. I simply can not believe that people do this voluntarily! He barks at every noise in the hallway, we have no yard to let him out in, and the weather has been unrelenting rain. This morning the whole family was up at six am trying to shush him because the neighbor upstairs already hates us enough.
The privacy issue is also starting to wear on us. In an open space there is no way to put Bryce to bed while we stay up. No way to have a private conversation. No possiblity of romance.
These things never bothered me on the trip. I suppose the good so far outweighed the bad; the bad melted into the background. But back in the real world. These issues are frustrating.
OK....so I am complaining a lot. Thats because I can not lie....its very hard readjusting.
We did anticipate this. We discussed it at length.
But, I suppose knowing an emotion will come and actually feeling that emotion are two very different entities.
To try to make everything more livable, Bryce and Rich are spending quite a bit of time away. At the Cape House, at friends, in Conneticut.
But, in reality instead of making things easier it makes them harder. I am left behind to deal with real life on my own. I feel excluded from the family. I feel lonely. I won't be afraid to admit, more than once I have gone to sleep on the basement mattress crying. Wishing we could be back on our adventure or wishing life had never changed in the first place.
We put Bryce back in school in Reading, where we use to live, in order to help him have less adjustment. He seems pleased about that, but it means I drive past our old house to take him to school.
The first day I slowed in front of the house and said "There is our old house honey."
"Hmm"..he said. "It looks different. Mommy you better get moving or I'll be late for school."
God, I wish I had his sense of moving on. Staring at the house my heart was heavy.
'Its so beautiful' I thought. 'And now someone else owns it. They live there.' Irrationally, I felt as though someone else was living the life that was suppose to be mine.
But, I remind myself that the trip is not what changed that life. The trip was a savior response to a life that was already changing. The house is beautiful. But, that life was no longer making us happy the way it once did.
Alas.....its not as bad as it seems. When I feel disappointed, overwhelmed, and sad......I remind myself:
I have climbed the ancient ruins of Peru. Looked into the volcanos of Bolivia. Crossed the desert of Chile and sipped wine in the mountains of Argentina. I have steamed on a ship through the icebergs, been bitten by a penguin. I watched my son ride a llama and danced at the clubs in Buenos Aires with my husband. I have cheered at Macarana stadium and rode a horse on the island of Morro. I have spent countless hours soaking up the sun in Brazil.
On the trip I read 37 books. I met scores of interesting people, learned a new language and saw things most will never see.
Adjusting is hard. But, I am lucky. I am lucky because I took a chance to do something special. And it was incredible. I am lucky because no matter how hard this is.......that was worth it.
I lived 153 days of bliss. And I lived it with the men I love.

Day 145
Miami, USA
You know the expression "ton of bricks"...well.....today thats how it hit me. As I read the comments following my announcement that we were back in The States, I burst into tears. "Say it isn't so!" said Shannon.....I wish I could.
Don't get me wrong....I don't feel sorry for us. God knows we have had more than most ever dream of. I will never be able to put into words how much this time has meant to us as a family and to each of us individulaly.
I say with confidence that The Herald Family travels well together. The three of us have always been bonded and now we share not only this special experience, but the knowledge that five months of living in a 100 square foot room, moving on average every three days, figuring out A to B, getting through the fun and the scary......is all something we can do together.....and most importantly have it unite us in a way that makes me so very proud of my boys. I am forever grateful for the chance, the lesson, the adventure.
However, I believe it impossible for me not to be sad as we all are when something wonderful is over.
Anyhow.....back to blogging!
After two wonderful nights hanging out with Taylor, Amy, and their two sons in their beautiful old Miami home we headed to surprise my Grandma.
Bryce wanted to run in and yell "surprise!" as loud as possible.
But, seeing as she is a 95 year old woman with cancer......I decided that might be a bad idea. We wanted to visit....not give her a heart attack. So we went with the less intense version of simply walking into her living room. She was of course, thrilled and we got to spend a lovely afternoon chatting with her and my aunt Maureen. My father's siblings Patti and Marty showed up for dinner and it just felt nice to be around family.
We are staying at Patti's house and she is much to hospitable and generous for words.
My parents get here tomorrow........and then we are off on one last adventure. Don't give up on us yet!

Day 144
Miami, USA

Yes.....its true. I report with great regret that we have returned to the good old USA. After 15 hours of flying...nearly 20 hours of tiring travel we arrived at US customs and imigration. On our native soil for the first time in five months.
When I first announced we were leaving, I told you there were two things that would bring us home:

A. We were ready;

We were not. We desperately wanted to see far Northern Brazil and Columbia. We were perfectly comfortable with our vagabond lifestyle and had gotten use to the packing, moving, and changing. We missed a few things.....but not enough to want our wonderful adventure to end.

B. We were out of money;
Well....close....but not quite.

So...why are we here?? To be honest, no matter how hard I fought it.....I just could not rid myself the responisiblity inside of me. And when my office starting putting the pressure on for me to come home.....we decided we had to heed the call to our old lives.
When I told Bryce we were going home he said "Yeah!" I don't think he quite understands what all that means and how much he will miss our adventure. He will probably say hi to all his friends and then want to go right back.
We are now spending a couple of nights with our friends Taylor and Amy in Miami. As far as I am concerned.....we are still on the trip.....I have never been to Miami!
Soon we will head t visit my Grandma just North of here.....and then....we have a dew ideas in the works!!!!
So.......keep reading. I hate a book with an obrupt ending! And we still have a few surprises in store.

P.S.
I never answered Heather's question about how much The Iberostar cost....because its just too embarrasing to admit it.
Lets just say....Bryce better get a scholarship for college!

Day 142

Rio, Brazil

Why back to Rio?? Well...that is where the flights go.

We are staying in town this time and having a great amount of fun. Our book says one of the best experiences in the world is to "be the boy or girl from Ipanema"....so today that is what we did. We layed on the beach and soaked up the sun. It is really fantastic to have this huge, beautiful beach right in the heart of the city. Like nowhere else I have ever experienced. Its a lot of fun, if you don't mind the hoards of hawkers coming by to sell, drinks, clothes, jewlery, tattoos, food......we actually don't. We find it more charming than annoying. Plus...you never have to leave your beach chair. Everything just comes to you!

We also had the pleasure today of having lunch with Vern Herald's (Rich's Dad) college roommate! He is Brazillian and moved back to Rio over 30 years ago.....Through our driver here in Rio we looked him up and ionvited him to lunch. We thought this picture might be a lot of fun for Vern.

However, so far my favorite Rio experience was last night.

Rich and I got a sitter and went to dinner at The Copacabana Palace. Best food we have ever had! And the restaruant is beautiful, the service perfect, the atmosphere almost a trip back in time. I felt like Bridgette Bordeau in the 1920s. It was pure ellegance personified.

Days 137 to 140
Praia do Forte, Brazil
I wanted to head to this area North of Salvador because it is famous for Turtles. We love turtles....for those of you who don´t know....Rich and I were engaged on the beach in Australia on a night baby sea turtles were hatching and running for the ocean in the moonlight all around us. We have told Bryce the stories and he always gets angry...."I can´t believe you didn´t take me!" he says. The whole "You did not exist yet" thing does not seem to be a good enough excuse to satisfy......so I figured this was my chance to make it up to him.
I had read a magazine article about a new hotel here called The Iberostar. The magazine was in Pourtuguese.....so I did not understand it, but the photos looked great! I checked it out online.....no info......but I´m game....lets give it a try.
We should have known the moment we pulled up to the huge entry gates with the security guards with headsets, that this was not the hotel for us. Security guards with headsets might as well be men wearing t-shirts that say "You can not afford this." But, hell....we were here and now I wanted to at least see it.
Driving through the palms on the 3 mile drive to the hotel it became more and more obvious that my initial assessment was correct.......this place was bigger and more beautiful than the Taj Majal. Fountains everywhere, men in golf carts, colorful arched buildings in every direction.
Our cab pulled up and I walked into the lobby to "ask" about prices. The front desk told me.....I turned to tell Rich and Bryce to get back into the cab....but there was a problem.
Bryce was standing with stars in his eyes as a pretty receptionist explained to him the: kids club, kids pool, kids theatre, kids golf, kids competitions, ice cream parlor....need I go on. I turned the other way and Rich was watching the Gucci clad models go by while signaling the doorman to get our bags out of the car.
So....Welcome to the Iberostar!
I had most certainly be foiled!
"Two nights!" I told them.

I write to you on night number 4. Okay, Okay....I got hooked too. The beautiful ocean view roon, the big king size bed, the free margaritas and frosty pineapple drinks. Plus they have bingo everyday at 4. I love Bingo.
Ah yes.... The Iberostar. Or as I like to call it Club Med on Crack. This place never stops moving.
Rich has become the MVP on the water basketball team and he actually won the riffelry turnament.
Produce Broker my butt! He must have secretly been a CIA agent.
And Bryce.....Bryce who???? I have barely seen him since we checked in! He runs to kids club every morning after breakfast and then we hunt him down around 9:30 pm to put him to bed.
Last night however we were encouraged to go to the theatre right after dinner where we were thrilled to see our little bug staring in the mini club version of High School Musical.
Thanks Heather!....she´ll know what I mean.
After the show, Bryce told me "They always want me to perform....and sometimes they don´t even say please."
Ahhh...how quickly a star becomes a prima donna!
Yesterday we did manage to extract ourselves and Bryce from the hotel grounds long enough to go find what we came for......Turtles.We went to the Tamar Projecto Turtles. The largest sea turtle rescue project in the world. It was wonderful.....like a huge aquarium on the beach. They had tuns of pools of rescued adult turtles, pools of newly born and yet to be released babies and even "touch pools" where you culd stick your hands in and feel turtles, sting rays and various fish. Despite all the complaining to get Bryce out of the hotel.....he loved it.

They are such facinating and majestic creatures. I always find them so peaceful.
My book calls the project "Disneyfied"...which I assume is mean to be an insult....but I don´t really care what it take to bring awareness to the plight of this endangered species....I thought the project did an excellent ob of teaching both children and adults about this fabulous lifeform.
We also took a nice long stroll around town to do some shopping. Praia do Forte is a beautiful little village with great shops, restaurants, playgounds.....and Bryce´s need t0 make a city worthwild....tree to climb.
Overall....we have had a fabulous stay. A bit commercialized and probably more pampering and activity than we needed. But, its been fun. And fun its ultimately what it is all about.

Ok....no time to blog right now.....but MOM...I just read your comments! Wow....I guess that could have been Sao Paulo or Montevideo.....plenty of anti-Bush stuff both places.
No worries here in Praia do Forte....we are perfectly safe. No riots. Just a front desk woman who hates me.
I asked her why we could not get towels after 5pm and her answer was "Well....we don´t get many Americans here."
Probably makes no sense to you.....but to me the meaning was quite clear! I laughed the whole way back to my room! Its my favorite comment of the whole trip.
I´ll blog later.
Love,
Bets

Day 134
Maru Penninsula, Brazil
A lazy day. Not really an option to be too energetic here. We saundered down the beach this morning to the point where we found a comfy little beach bar clad with loung chairs and pillows. We spent the day there chatting with other vacationers, swimming, reading, and dining on typical Bahian foods. Bahia (this state of Brazil) is famous for very distinct and flavorful food. My favorite was the fried cheese they heat over coals on the beach and then douse in lemon. Bryce enjoys the fried meat and falafel balls and Rich dives into the ginger coconut shrimp. All these foods are served by vendors that walk up and down the beach with their fresh wears and then cook it up in a pan in the sand when you are ready.
It was quite lovely.
Rich got up the stamina to go diving with a guy from Sao Paulo he had gotten friendly with at the pousada. He had a great time. However the best part was watching Bryce get excited about the fact that HIS Dad was a real diver! He helped him get on all his equipment and check his guages. He can´t wait to be old enough to go with.
Being too young, instead he made friends with a boy from Argentina. I think he was happy to find a child who spoke Spanish instead of Portugese! His spanish can right back.....I was impressed.
We headed back to the pousada just in time for our Thai massage under a thatched tent next to the water. Oh...life is tough.
At night, Rich and I laid under the moonlight in beach loungers staring at the stars.
I mentioned my "bed" dream to him. He just laughed.
So, I asked him "Don´t you miss anything from home?"
During his quiet thinking process......I listened to the waves tumble onto the shore. I felt the warm breeze and watched the palms sway above us. I took a sip of my wine.
He smiled at me and said "No."

Hey Guys! Thanks for all the comments last time! Made my day. Sorry I have been away for a few days....but we were in the land of no internet.
I will have everything caught up by tomorrow and I will post Maru Penninsula pics as soon as I can figure out how! This computer is funky. :)

Day 133
Morro to Valencia
Valencia to Camamu
Camamu to Maru Penninsula
Maru Penninsula to Barra Grange
ALL BRAZIL
Ahhhh...."travel days" as we call them are never my favorites....but none the less, always an adventure.
This morning we got up early to bid farewell to the lovely Hotel Anima and the Island of Morro. Once again we were forced out not because we wanted to leave....but because we had run out of money. We, born of the easy ATM society....do not learn quickly. And, when the cash is gone...we must head to more modernized locals. Or at least stop by them on our way to even less modernized havens.
So we took the 30 minute bumpy road to the 20 minute smooth and lovely ferry, to the two hour car ride.....to the second ferry....not so smooth.
Yes, I am sorry, I have once again embarassed the American people. You see, we waited over an hour for the ferry until we finally realized "the ferry" was that tiny speed boat that had been waiting at the dock the entire time.
"Why couldn´t we just leave?" asked Rich.
The answer came all too quickly as we realized they were waiting for more people. They loaded 8 tourists, one captain, and about 300 pounds of lugguage into the tiny speedboat, clearly marked on the side, in english, CAPACITY 4 PEOPLE. Maybe the problem being these people do not speak English.
So here is the part where I embarassed you.....
We only got about 5 feet from the dock before it became clear that not only were we hanging over the sides, but it was to be a bumpy ride.
So with all my american blooded gusto, I announced the boat would go no further until Bryce was wearing a life jacket.
All the Argentines onboard cracked up and made comments about overly paranoid Americans....but I did not care. He is my son...his life is my responsibility and pride does not play a part in that.
So..back to the dock we went.....Bryce got a life jacket....and 40 minutes later we arrived on the tip of the Maru Penninsula.
The best way I can describe it is to say.....imagine if there were no roads to P-town on the tip of Cape Cod. Just gorgeous, stunning beaches and a few small B&Bs. No restaruants, no shops. Simply water, sand and sun. Plus a guy who meets you at the dock with cold coconuts.
Another 45 minute truck ride over an even bumpier road brought us to Encantado Du Lua, our home for the next two nights. It was simple and small......but how can one be too unhappy when the waves are lapping at the shore and the sun is starting to slip into the ocean.
Though.....I have an admission to make: I woke up with a start in the middle of the night. I thought I had had a nighmare...but quickly acknowledged I had been dreaming about my bed. As I call it "my princess in the pea bed." My $10,000 bed. (Yes..remember...we had money once.)
Oh....how I love the pillow top matress and down pillows. 2000 thread count sheets and silk comforter. I felt the thin, lumpy pillow beneath my head and smelled the dampness of sheets left near the ocean too long. Could it be I missed home?
Not enough not to happily fall back asleep and wake up to the birds chirping out my window.

Day 132

Morro Sao Paulo, Brazil

Still Here! Today we took the attitude of "If you cant beat them, join them." You see, one of the few difficulties of the trip lately has been the frustration of the slow, lazy lifestyle of the Brazillians. These people just do not move fast.....and we are Americans....its hard to become accustomed to.

But, today....we tried it their way.

Early in the day we sat ourselves down at a beach restaurant.......and we stayed until high tide washed the place away.

Its not so bad!

What else can I say....thats all she wrote.

Day 131

Morro Sao Paulo, Brazil

Okay, okay....we were suppose to leave two days ago....but its just sooooo nice here! We have lost all motivation and if we do not find some inspiration soon.....someone might have to come and fetch us! Any volunteers??????

Anyway....last night was incredible. Originally we had intended to go into town for dinner, but our lazy bones voted for the mellow tranquility of our pousada instead. Quiet music on the surround sound, ocean breezes, great food and the super smiley waiter who does not speak a lick of English.....how can you resist.

In the middle of dinner, Phillipe came running over shouting "Go to the beach!"

We are foreign....so we listen....and along with the only two other dinners (honeymooners from Italy) we scurried to the beach.

There, in all its glory, was a full red moon. And as we stood in wonder the shadow began to slowly slide its way across until we had a 3/4 eclipse. Amazingly, I have never seen an eclipse before. This was not a bad one to start with. So serene, so peaceful, jazz sang in the background as we all sat in wonder letting our food get cold.

This morning we decided we wanted to go snorkling. Phillipe said there was a good spot, but it was a little far. He could provide us transportation. On Morro.....this is transportation.

But, even the horses could only take us for far before the mangroves overtook our path and we had to rely on our own feet.

Through the mangroves and across low tide on a wet and rocky coral reef. This prooved to be a bit of a wardrobe problem........You see, for the horseback ride, I had worn the only pair of decent shoes I have not shipped home or simply disgarded. These were my black suede Merril sneakers.

I laughed to myself.....in my former life "wrong shoes" meant that the particular shade of gold just did not accent the dress very well. Today, it meant very water logged feet that were an effort to pick up again and again across rocky terrain!

I guess combining horseback ridding with snorkling can be akin to going out clubbing straight after work: You are bound to be dressed inappropriately for one or the other!

Through much effort, we made it to the spot.......too bad there were no fish!

But, the adventure was fun. As parents, Rich and I just delight in watching Bryce explore his world. We stopped for every crab, shell, or leaf along the way!