DAY 23
Copacabana to La Paz, Bolivia
The night the lights went out in Copa! Last night after a lovely day we saw the storm heading in about 7pm ( they seem to have huge storms over Lake Titicaca every night)...so we hurried off to dinner. Just like the night before the rain started just as we were about to arrive at the restaurant. But, unlike the night before we were suddenly cast in pitch darkness! I am talking BLACKNESS. No lights for over 300 miles and the stars and moon covered in dark clouds. You could not see your hand in front of your face!
Having no other option we "felt" our way into the restaurant where they were starting to light the fire and place candels on the tables. They assured us they could make us a small dinner. "Nachos?" they asked. Sure! That sounded good! Turns out Nachos in Bolivia are burnt Dorito chips covered in goatsmilk cheese with a side of Guacamole....but what the hell....you can´t expect miracles without electricity. The restaurant kept assuring us the electric would come back on, but after a couple hours the streets were still cast in blackness. We decided we had to go home anyway. The first part of our journey down the street was not so bad as our voices seemed to carry down the empty cobblestone path and kindly locals would come to their doorways to hold out flashlights to guide our way. But, then we hit the beach. It was like walking in a tunnel with no end. Having walked the beach earlier we knew there were many obstacles....large sewer drains, pitted holes, concrete pillons and large rocks. It was also a bit spooky not having any idea if someone was in back or in front of you. But, Rich pulled out the camera and started taking flash pictures every few minutes so that at least we could have a one second view of what was ahead.
Finally after shivering and fumbling our way Bryce yelled "I see the gates!" Yes, the charming and much appreciated gates of our hacienda! As we pulled open the massive iron gates a bellboy came running with a flashlight and guided our way into the candlelit hotel. Instead of being upset...all three of us had a sudden sense of elation! What a funny and bizar little adventure in the dark! We decided instead of returning to our room we would celebrate with drinks and dessert in the hotel restaurant.
We then headed to our room with our old fashioned candelabras in hand and loaded up the pre-charged DVD to watch Vegas Vacation in the dark. We giggled and laughed. When we went to bed at 10:30...it was the latest we had stayed up the entire trip!
This morning...no luck...still no power in the entire region...so we hopped on a mini bus to LaPaz!
I won´t tell you about the bus ride too much because I cried in fear of my life and the life of my child the entire way! Pouring rain on tiny mountain roads edged by shear cliffs and two way traffic despite the one lane! Dear God am I glad that is over!
It did not help that yesterday I met a girl who´s bus from Puno to Copacabana crashed! Her ear had to be stiched back on, her fingers were broken and her wrist and knee also had stiches that looked like they were becoming infected. She said the police barely cared because they said it happens all the time.....GREAT! And no seat belts to be found ANYWHERE in Peru or Bolivia. Yes...I am that idiot mother who carrys the car seat everywhere despite the fact there is noway to belt it in! The Bolivians think I am wacky.
Anyhow...we are here and to reward myself for surviving the "Death Road" we are at a five star hotel (I talked them down from $100 a night to $50 per night) :). We have an indoor pool, cable TV, and not just a hot shower....but a TUB! A Jacuzzi tub! I have not seen anything but a tiny shower stall since getting off the plane in Lima! Dear Lord....I might get to shave my legs!
Best of all.....TOILET PAPER! Two Rolls of toilet paper and you are even allowed to flush it! Our last hotel provided one small roll with the promise we would not dispose of any down the pipes...yes its gross!
Otherwise La Paz is just a big dirty city....but who cares...I might just spend two days in the room with my DOWN PILLOW! No popcorn...thank you!
OK...La Paz is a bit interesting other than TP and TV....imagine this...its a city with 1.5 million people smack at the top of the Andes Mountains. The altitude here is nearly 15,000 feet! To put that into prospective its about half the normal crusising altitude of a 747!
Luckily, I think we are finally adjusted to the altitude from Cusco and Copa. We are only now 1000 feet higher...so I don´t think we will feel it too much. I hope not because although the original headachs Rich got are gone, he still can´t sleep at night. Living up in the clouds gives you VERY weird dreams. Those I won´t share!
Well.....off to take a Jacuzzi!
B, B, and R
Copacabana to La Paz, Bolivia
The night the lights went out in Copa! Last night after a lovely day we saw the storm heading in about 7pm ( they seem to have huge storms over Lake Titicaca every night)...so we hurried off to dinner. Just like the night before the rain started just as we were about to arrive at the restaurant. But, unlike the night before we were suddenly cast in pitch darkness! I am talking BLACKNESS. No lights for over 300 miles and the stars and moon covered in dark clouds. You could not see your hand in front of your face!
Having no other option we "felt" our way into the restaurant where they were starting to light the fire and place candels on the tables. They assured us they could make us a small dinner. "Nachos?" they asked. Sure! That sounded good! Turns out Nachos in Bolivia are burnt Dorito chips covered in goatsmilk cheese with a side of Guacamole....but what the hell....you can´t expect miracles without electricity. The restaurant kept assuring us the electric would come back on, but after a couple hours the streets were still cast in blackness. We decided we had to go home anyway. The first part of our journey down the street was not so bad as our voices seemed to carry down the empty cobblestone path and kindly locals would come to their doorways to hold out flashlights to guide our way. But, then we hit the beach. It was like walking in a tunnel with no end. Having walked the beach earlier we knew there were many obstacles....large sewer drains, pitted holes, concrete pillons and large rocks. It was also a bit spooky not having any idea if someone was in back or in front of you. But, Rich pulled out the camera and started taking flash pictures every few minutes so that at least we could have a one second view of what was ahead.
Finally after shivering and fumbling our way Bryce yelled "I see the gates!" Yes, the charming and much appreciated gates of our hacienda! As we pulled open the massive iron gates a bellboy came running with a flashlight and guided our way into the candlelit hotel. Instead of being upset...all three of us had a sudden sense of elation! What a funny and bizar little adventure in the dark! We decided instead of returning to our room we would celebrate with drinks and dessert in the hotel restaurant.
We then headed to our room with our old fashioned candelabras in hand and loaded up the pre-charged DVD to watch Vegas Vacation in the dark. We giggled and laughed. When we went to bed at 10:30...it was the latest we had stayed up the entire trip!
This morning...no luck...still no power in the entire region...so we hopped on a mini bus to LaPaz!
I won´t tell you about the bus ride too much because I cried in fear of my life and the life of my child the entire way! Pouring rain on tiny mountain roads edged by shear cliffs and two way traffic despite the one lane! Dear God am I glad that is over!
It did not help that yesterday I met a girl who´s bus from Puno to Copacabana crashed! Her ear had to be stiched back on, her fingers were broken and her wrist and knee also had stiches that looked like they were becoming infected. She said the police barely cared because they said it happens all the time.....GREAT! And no seat belts to be found ANYWHERE in Peru or Bolivia. Yes...I am that idiot mother who carrys the car seat everywhere despite the fact there is noway to belt it in! The Bolivians think I am wacky.
Anyhow...we are here and to reward myself for surviving the "Death Road" we are at a five star hotel (I talked them down from $100 a night to $50 per night) :). We have an indoor pool, cable TV, and not just a hot shower....but a TUB! A Jacuzzi tub! I have not seen anything but a tiny shower stall since getting off the plane in Lima! Dear Lord....I might get to shave my legs!
Best of all.....TOILET PAPER! Two Rolls of toilet paper and you are even allowed to flush it! Our last hotel provided one small roll with the promise we would not dispose of any down the pipes...yes its gross!
Otherwise La Paz is just a big dirty city....but who cares...I might just spend two days in the room with my DOWN PILLOW! No popcorn...thank you!
OK...La Paz is a bit interesting other than TP and TV....imagine this...its a city with 1.5 million people smack at the top of the Andes Mountains. The altitude here is nearly 15,000 feet! To put that into prospective its about half the normal crusising altitude of a 747!
Luckily, I think we are finally adjusted to the altitude from Cusco and Copa. We are only now 1000 feet higher...so I don´t think we will feel it too much. I hope not because although the original headachs Rich got are gone, he still can´t sleep at night. Living up in the clouds gives you VERY weird dreams. Those I won´t share!
Well.....off to take a Jacuzzi!
B, B, and R
posted by The Herald Family at 2:16 PM
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