DAY 28
Uyuni, Bolivia
Oswaldo and Franks came to pick us up at 9am this morning to start our trek into Southern Bolivia. We were somewhat surprised to find the entire Land Cruiser, driver, and guide were just for us.....but Oswaldo explained that since I wanted four full days in the area, finishing in Chile we would be on a private tour. Just fine for us...we set out.
Almost immediately after leaving the small, nothing to speak of town of Uyuni the miracle of the Salt Desert started to show its face. The optical illusions and mirages formed along the edges of the desert making it appear as if we were headed for a lake filled with islands. But, this land has not been a lake for over 10,000 years.....its is 7000 square miles of earth made of pure salt.
Driving onto the salt is a bizzare feeling that can not possibly be explained. It looks like snow, but is hard as rock, and hot as the sunshine.
It was expained to us that somwhere under 15 feet of this salt is still the remnants of the lake that once existed here only to be taken over by its own elements and minerals. To prove this point there are holes in various places where the cold water still bubbles up and the drivers must avoid a sudden plung into a pool of unknown depth.
As we drove and explored across the salt it seemed as if the brownish, pinkish glows of white crystals would go on forever. Off in the distance the mirage of water persisted and it seemed impossible no Oasis existed in this salt desert. However, just as we began to belive we were the only people on this plain of white that would go on forever......an island appeared. Isla Pescado. In the middle of the salt, islands exist just as they do in lakes. And there in front of you protruding from the salt was an island covered in dry earth and cactus.
The island is actually made of coral.....a skeleton left over from the former lake that lived here so long ago. Filled with fossils and reefs above sea level. It was wild! We hiked for a while and chated with backpackers also stopping at the island. It became clear immediately here in Southern Bolivia that the throngs of buses loaded with foriegn and elderly tourists had evaporated. This was rough stuff, off the beaten track and apparently only for the young and foolhardy singles.....and of course, our little family. The backpackers seemed quite proud of us and many said we inspired them to belive life does not end when you have children. At least were were able to do some service in that regard.
We ate lunch and then drove across the salt admiring the views for hours.
This night we slept in a hotel make entirely of salt. The chairs, tables, walls, beds all constructed from the hard salt. Surprisingly it was very comfortable and despite outside temps droping to 30 it was warm without heat.
Of course, Bryce thought the best part was that they had baby kittens at the hotel who were immediately taken to our room and snuggled into his bed. No one seemed to mind.....in the entire 30 room hotel we were the only guests!
Electricity came on for two hours at night and solar power gave us a warm shower, we slept quite well in our salt beds.
Uyuni, Bolivia
Oswaldo and Franks came to pick us up at 9am this morning to start our trek into Southern Bolivia. We were somewhat surprised to find the entire Land Cruiser, driver, and guide were just for us.....but Oswaldo explained that since I wanted four full days in the area, finishing in Chile we would be on a private tour. Just fine for us...we set out.
Almost immediately after leaving the small, nothing to speak of town of Uyuni the miracle of the Salt Desert started to show its face. The optical illusions and mirages formed along the edges of the desert making it appear as if we were headed for a lake filled with islands. But, this land has not been a lake for over 10,000 years.....its is 7000 square miles of earth made of pure salt.
Driving onto the salt is a bizzare feeling that can not possibly be explained. It looks like snow, but is hard as rock, and hot as the sunshine.
It was expained to us that somwhere under 15 feet of this salt is still the remnants of the lake that once existed here only to be taken over by its own elements and minerals. To prove this point there are holes in various places where the cold water still bubbles up and the drivers must avoid a sudden plung into a pool of unknown depth.
As we drove and explored across the salt it seemed as if the brownish, pinkish glows of white crystals would go on forever. Off in the distance the mirage of water persisted and it seemed impossible no Oasis existed in this salt desert. However, just as we began to belive we were the only people on this plain of white that would go on forever......an island appeared. Isla Pescado. In the middle of the salt, islands exist just as they do in lakes. And there in front of you protruding from the salt was an island covered in dry earth and cactus.
The island is actually made of coral.....a skeleton left over from the former lake that lived here so long ago. Filled with fossils and reefs above sea level. It was wild! We hiked for a while and chated with backpackers also stopping at the island. It became clear immediately here in Southern Bolivia that the throngs of buses loaded with foriegn and elderly tourists had evaporated. This was rough stuff, off the beaten track and apparently only for the young and foolhardy singles.....and of course, our little family. The backpackers seemed quite proud of us and many said we inspired them to belive life does not end when you have children. At least were were able to do some service in that regard.
We ate lunch and then drove across the salt admiring the views for hours.
This night we slept in a hotel make entirely of salt. The chairs, tables, walls, beds all constructed from the hard salt. Surprisingly it was very comfortable and despite outside temps droping to 30 it was warm without heat.
Of course, Bryce thought the best part was that they had baby kittens at the hotel who were immediately taken to our room and snuggled into his bed. No one seemed to mind.....in the entire 30 room hotel we were the only guests!
Electricity came on for two hours at night and solar power gave us a warm shower, we slept quite well in our salt beds.
1 Comments:
It is hard to imagine a hotel made out of salt. Weren't you telling me of something similar in Europe but ice instead??
I have not heard of many of the places you have been but between the man-made floating islands and the salt flats (coral with water still below...interesting)I am most intrigued.
I have a hard time understanding how the back-packers were getting around - desert like with few oasis.
What is most amazing to me is the extent of their solar power. The US is so far advanced yet in this respect so far behind...the efficiencies and savings to the environment with solar is such a blessing and although it is clearly the only option in the salt flats of Bolivia...it does make one wonder why the states doesn't have more use of solar.
Enough pontificating...moving on to the next posting.
hugs
paula
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